• View
• Edit
• History
• Print

Reno 2007 FAM

Reno-Sparks, Nevada by Donald Miserandino

A trip out west to see what’s at the other end of Interstate 80.

Looking at the map, I realized that for this adventure, I could have been heading out of New York City, just going down Interstate 80, way past the Poconos to the Reno-Sparks area. But, since I didn't have the three days to cover the 2,700 miles, I took a plane. At the moment there are no direct flights from New York City to Reno, so I got a seat on the first flight of the day and changed in Phoenix. Good idea. Smooth trip - no problems. Most experienced travelers know that the first flight of the day has typically the shortest security lines and is usually on time. Well, morning came and went early and so did I. J-F-K was replaced by R-E-N-O.

As on most trips, I like to find out "What's Happening" or rather "Could Happen” before actually getting to Reno; standing in the middle of a street; broke to my shorts because I didn't do the town right. I really wanted to learn about activities in Reno other than just gambling or traditional "quickie" divorces. My spy guide on this trip was Moon Handbooks: Nevada, by Deke Castleman. While the Travel book series has been around for over 30 years, the Nevada Book is only 7 years old and provided the background "scoop" and every detail I needed. Reno-Sparks is not just gambling. It actually has things to do, history to see, lessons to be learned and nightlife, both in the casino and outside. This is a vacation spot where the atmosphere of the western movies is available through a short trip to the mountains, the nearby towns or even a look through the hotel windows at the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The book even gave a short "how to" on gambling and had a bibliography section for further research. ...But really, with all the details already given, who needed it.

Route 80 and the view from my window

When I landed in Reno, I followed the signs and took the hotel shuttle to John Ascuaga's Nugget, and there was my old friend Route 80 leading right into my new home for the next few days. Check-in was easy, the room was clean; the gambling machines were everywhere... Reno and adventure wait.

The next morning, I took a walk around the Nugget. The casino was busy, but enjoyable. There were a few vacant machines in just about each section. I tried a variety of the machines and spoke to some staff that were very professional and friendly. They explained that the casino seemed to be in a perfect mode for a visit. Every style of game was reasonably available, without the east coast hustle dance to "suck the money out of your pocket." Today was the day. I could lose money at my own pace.

Comstock Cemetery in Virginia City

After the breakfast of “chips and dice,” my tour of the Reno-Sparks area began with a trip to Virginia City. We started in a most unlikely spot: The Voices from the Past Cemetery Tour by the Funtime Theater Company. This was a real graveyard walk, where re-enactors took on the characteristics and persona of some of the prominent past residents of Virginia City. They spoke of the passion and fever for the silver that caused the residents to buy, sell and plunder the earth, each other and even the dead. Their purpose was more than theatrical, as this graveyard really needs a lot of financial help to be restored. Victorian style railings, decorative metal work and stone work, in various stages of extreme damage and past vandalism, could be seen everywhere. I made out one grave with the tri-square of the Masons and another with a non-committal verse hoping for a hereafter filled with silver. Most of the graves seemed disturbed, with the stones broken or pushed over. Even in death, the dead were not allowed to sleep.

Virginia City’s main street was a little more modern than I hoped for, but still more antique than I expected. Wooden sidewalks and an extensive collection of cast iron building fronts seemed to make it easy to imagine early brawling days, where men were entranced by the warm amber glow of beautiful bar girls, oil lamps and beer. All of this and a sunset view that should be bottled and sold. Maybe that's the real wealth and the old timers did not see it. Our city tour ended in the Bucket of Blood Saloon with a large collection of hanging hurricane lamps and historical pictures covering the walls. This display of collectibles was rather common in all the stores we visited. Each seemed to have its own slant on the town history with pictures of their own western and mining heritage. It’s easy to imagine the past in Virginia City because the past is, well could be, present. Really it could!

Dinner tonight was at the Seven Mile Canyon Guest Ranch where we were offered a Western Barbeque. The ranch is located in the middle of the canyon, accessed by a winding and very steep road. Amador Stage Lines supplied the bus and a driver with skill enough to be a NYC taxi driver. While the passengers were holding their breath and saying prayers, the driver just shimmied down the mountainside, as if he were dancing in a contest. I, on the other hand, rushed out of the bus and picked up a “welcome to the ranch” drink. This is a working guest ranch with a riding area, trail rides and lodging. The setup appeared to be in a circular fashion of houses and lodges surrounding the outdoor barbeque and tables. The chef and her crew were ready and waiting, so as the guests lined up, the food was served. When the sun went down, the ranch lit up the night with a barbeque dinner, singing and two-step dancing. Before we left, I was introduced to my first western sky with the moon so close… Tomorrow is another day and another story.

Truckee - the little town that could, would and is doing it! The gateway road to the Donner Memorial State Park is watched over by the town of Truckee. Essentially established in the early 1800s, it has seen and played a part in U.S. pioneer history. From the old hotel to the cast iron front stores, the whole town is accessible by easy walking. A small guide book adds to the interest and the town becomes an aerobic walking tour. A pioneer log cabin sits patiently on a side street waiting for visitors. It still retains the stylized notched logs of the first settlers. The town has grown, while still keeping many historical buildings, and a little map at the visitor’s center is a guide to a short walking tour. The Donner Family’s hardships were recorded in newspapers, books, diaries, and the debate continues over the fact that they did what they had to do to survive. A little background reading and a visit to the Donner Memorial State Park gives a better understanding of this human historical event.

ATV's Ready to Go

After a day’s rest, it was off with High Sierra ATV Tours in Plumas National Forest. This was the biggest chance I'd ever get to be in John Wayne film territory, and I took it! The forest was reminiscent of a western movie like True Grit, The tour guides met us in the parking lot. They brought the all-terrain-vehicles and I brought my smiley grin. Fighting the urge to jump on and ride off, we had a full safety talk before we left the base camp. After receiving the operating instructions, we were warned not to go too fast or make sudden turns. This was not to be a “heavy duty trip,” but an enjoyable one. Some of us then took a slow ride around the parking lot to test our knowledge and work out any bugs. After a second safety reminder and under the watchful eyes of the trail guides, we started, slowly at first, but as the dirt road challenged, we met it. The sights in the forest were humbling and the ride was terrific. We went over hills, around rocks, down dirt roads, and past the tallest of trees to a breathtaking vision of Frenchman's Lake. This was my first time in the western woods and I made the most of it. If I could have had a couple more rides, I’m certain I would have gotten more skilled and been ready for the more adventurous tours. Or maybe I was just lucky I didn't turn over.

Northstar Stables, Easy Mount!

Next was horseback riding at Northstar Stables. Another bus trip over hill and dale and almost way into the backwoods are the Northstar Stables. For my level of skill, a good stable has mellow guides and mellower horses. Northstar did not disappoint! From the moment I saw that we mounted by way of a ramp and platform, I knew I could do this. The fact is, this was so much fun and relaxing that I almost fell asleep in the saddle.

Later that night, we went to see Kalin and Jinger’s “Real Magic” show at the Magic Underground, and, yes, the magic show was “under the ground,” hidden beneath the art museum piazza at the Pioneer Center for the Performing Arts. Access was by an entrance that was more like going down into a subway or dungeon, rather than entering a little theater. The mystery hangs so thick in the air that you know, here, magic is born, matures and learns to grab the audience and throttles them into submission. This is not the "HOW DID HE DO THAT??!!” routine, but more like the “whoa baby” kind. I wouldn’t be surprised if sometimes the audience just sits there blank eyed and stunned! Then they’d have to hire a clown with a squirt water bottle just to bring them back to reality.

The Reno-Sparks area seems almost designed to be a family town with easy access to a variety of family activities, while still offering adult games of chance. For example, on one of my days, I went to breakfast at Circus Circus. I lucked out that a convention was in progress and I got to sit with them. It was a special breakfast buffet with varieties of scrambled eggs. (I happened to like the eggs and herbs.) This particular breakfast was set within the "midway" section of the Casino. Here is the area that the under 21sters would be using. No money can be won, but points redeemed for prizes by dart throwing, ring toss, water balloons and all the traditional midway games. There was even a stage where jugglers came out to perform. You might say the breakfast was held in the main ring of the circus itself.

Another night I went to Charlie Palmer's Steakhouse in the Grand Sierra Resort. Here the steak practically cuts itself. The atmosphere was relaxing, wait staff attentive, and the food “to die for.”

It appears as though each of the major hotels is undergoing renovation and each promises to be bigger and better than the other, which, for the nationally known Harrah’s, can be “quite a brag.” Some have almost doubled in size like the Peppermill, which can accommodate larger conventions, while others have expanded and then totally redone the interior of the original area. The Atlantis Casino Resort Spa is even connected to the new convention center, so attendees don’t even have to get wet! It is quite apparent that there is major investment going into the area, while still maintaining civic pride and working together to make Reno-Sparks the premier family vacation center of the west.