INTRODUCTION
Gradually becoming one of the country's esteemed cities, Essaouira (pronounced ess-oo-air-uh) is a peaceful port city approximately 3 hours West of Marrakesh. The streets are colorful, owing to its heritage as a haven for painters and artists, and the ramparts surrounding the medina are extremely well-preserved (they were only recently constructed in the 18th century). The ever present red earth tones of Marrakesh are absent here, as a blue, sea-inspired motif dominates the color scheme. Some visitors would describe the feeling of the city to be very relaxed, reminiscent of the hippie lifestyle, much in tune with the surfers who come here.
HISTORY
Essaouira has been inhabited since prehistoric times. The bay at Essaouira is partially sheltered by the island of Mogador, making it a peaceful harbor protected against strong marine winds.
Essaouira has always been considered one of the best docking points on the Moroccan coast. During the 5th century BC, a trading post was established by the Carthaginian navigator Hanno. Around the end of the 1st century BC or early 1st century AD, Juba II established a Tyrian purple factory, processing the dye found in shells off the coast, which was used to color the purple stripe in Imperial Roman togas.
During the 16th century, various powers including Spain, England, the Netherlands and France tried in vain to conquer the locality. Essaouira remained a haven for the export of sugar molasses and the anchoring of pirates.
The city as it is today was built during the 18th century when Moroccan authorities wanted to reposition the kingdom towards the ocean in pursuit of increased trade with Northern neighbors. European engineers, architects and technicians were hired to build the fortress and ramparts that still stand today. The name of the city means "The beautifully designed."
GETTING THERE
A bus or a grand taxi are the most common ways of getting here from Marrakesh.
ATTRACTIONS
Each June, the city hosts the Gnaoua World Music Festival, attracting thousands of music enthusiasts to engage in a musical dialogue of fusion (the Gnaoua are an ethnic group that combine indigenous animism with curative, traditional forms of music).
Local artisans and carpenters are skilled in the use of local wood, taken from a kind of Cypress, and produce pieces of furniture known as thuya. Since the city has not been overtaken by the swarms of toursits present in cities like Marrakesh and Fes, prices tend to be lower.
Blessed with strong and steady gusts of air from the Canaries, the shores are suited for any water activity requiring wind power. Thus, surfing, kitesurfing, windsurfing and perhaps one day parasailing, are all popular. Sunbathing is also done, mainly by non-Moroccans, but beware that exposing too much skin in an Islamic country is not always respectful (however, it is usually tolerated given the benefits of tourist revenue).
A walk along the ramparts, the defensive city walls, provides the visitor with a view into the area's past. The rocky cliffs that lead into the Atlantic were surely an impediment to offensive action from pirates and plunderers, as the port is not easily accessible. The canons that line the ramparts are also an impressive display of defense. The seaward views are a priceless photo opportunity, and an excellent spot for self-reflection, or a romantic stroll.
DAY TRIP
The nearby Sidi Kouki, 1.5 hours away, is less popular but even more enchanting as nearly no tourist treks here. Long stretches of sandy beach make this locality a paradise for sunbathers and surfers, especially those who are looking to practice or try for the first time, as the waters are less crowded. Sidi Kouki is a truly tranquil, beautiful place. If one is interested in staying the night, small, nameless guest houses offer rooms with views of the sea (e.g. this one, call +212 024 78 32 06).